By Mick Vann
Calabacita is Spanish for ‘squash,’ but in New Mexico, it refers to this dish, traditional fare of the Pueblo Indians. It is the most popularly cooked in the late summer to early fall, when all of the ingredients are fresh in the garden.
This dish is typically prepared as a stovetop sauté or stir fry but has evolved to be sautéed first, and then baked as a casserole with the addition of shredded chicken, pork, or beef. Some folks like to add a bit of heavy cream or half and half to make the dish a little creamy.
Many New Mexicans like to add some chicos, which are dried kernels of sweet corn, traditionally roasted in a horno oven (see notes below for preparation). White or yellow hominy may also be added. The dish is equally popular across Mexico, made with jalapeños, serranos, güeros or roasted and peeled poblanos. Any leftovers are excellent mixed with scrambled egg for a healthy breakfast taco.
Calabacitas de Santa Fe
(Serves 4 to 6 as a side dish)
• 1½ tablespoons vegetable oil, lard, or poultry fat
• 1½ tablespoons butter
• 2/3 cup chopped onion
• 4 cloves of garlic, minced
• 1¼ pounds squash (yellow, zucchini, or tatume), stemmed and sliced ¼ inch or chopped
• 1¼ cups fresh sweet corn, cut from the cob
• 2/3 cup halved cherry tomatoes or chopped tomatillo (optional)
• ½ teaspoon dried Mexican oregano, crumbled
• ½ to ¾ cup prepared roasted and chopped New Mexico green chili (to taste)
• Salt and pepper to taste
• ½ cup grated queso fresco or Monterey jack cheese
• Cilantro sprigs, for garnish
In a deep sauté pan or wok over medium high heat, melt the oil and butter. When sizzling, add the onion and sauté until transparent, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté 30 seconds longer.
Add the squash, corn, tomatoes or tomatillo (if using), and oregano and sauté until the squash is just beginning to get tender, about 3 minutes.
Add green chiles, and chicos or hominy (if using), and cook an additional 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, stir well, spoon into a serving dish. Top with the grated cheese, garnish with cilantro, and serve immediately.
To prepare as a casserole, preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly butter an appropriately-sized casserole dish, add shredded chicken, pork, or beef to the stir fry and mix well. Spoon into the casserole, smooth the surface, top with the shredded cheese, and bake uncovered for 25 minutes.
To prepare chicos, soak two-thirds cup of dried chicos in warm water for several hours or overnight. Drain and rinse in a colander. Add three cups water and the chicos to a heavy bottomed pan, bring to a boil, and reduce to a simmer. Cook for 60 to 90 minutes, until the chicos are tender, plump, and slightly chewy. Drain and add to the recipe, to taste.
Mick Vann is a horticulturist, food writer, blogger, chef and restaurant consultant. Read Mick’s blog at gustidude.blogspot.com.
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